Table Notes

Spaghetti Alla Carbonara

This recipe from Cook's Illustrated revolutionized how we perceived and experienced this classic dish. As the article puts it, "Restaurant carbonara is often an unctuous, congealed mass of cheese, eggs, and bacon." The test kitchen cooks focused on finding the "beauty in the beast" and certainly found it in this recipe. For instance, there is no cream used here, which makes it surprisingly light and extremely satisfying, with little post-eating blues after a rich carb meal-- assuming of course that you control your portions, which is hard to do because this is just so good! Toby has mastered this dish to perfection; it's now a consistent favourite in our winter repertoire (now coming to an end), especially since it's so easy to do.

Recipe

From Cook's' Illustrated (September-October 2001)

Add regular table salt to the pasta cooking water, but use sea salt flakes, if you can find them, to season the dish. We like the full flavor they bring to the carbonara. Note that while either table salt or sea salt can be used when seasoning in step 3, they are not used in equal amounts.

Serves 4 to 6

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 pound bacon (6 to 8 slices), slices halved length-wise, then cut crosswise into 1/4-inch pieces (In France, we use lardon, pre-sliced from the supermarket. Proscuitto would also work.)
1/2 cup dry white wine
3 large eggs
3/4 cup Parmesan cheese , finely grated (about 2 ounces)
1/4 cup Pecorino Romano cheese , finely grated (about 3/4 ounce)

3 small cloves of garlic , pressed through garlic press or minced to paste

1 pound spaghetti
table salt 
ground black pepper 

Note: Pouring the cheese and eggs over the hot pasta, tossing, and then adding the bacon ensures that none of the sauce get left in the bowl.

1. Adjust oven rack to lower-middle position, set large heatproof serving bowl on rack, and heat oven to 200 degrees. Bring 4 quarts water to rolling boil in large Dutch oven or stockpot.

2. While water is heating, heat oil in large skillet over medium heat until shimmering, but not smoking. Add bacon and cook, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and crisp, about 8 minutes. Add wine and simmer until alcohol aroma has cooked off and wine is slightly reduced, 6 to 8 minutes. Remove from heat and cover to keep warm. Beat eggs, cheeses, and garlic together with fork in small bowl; set aside.

3. When water comes to boil, add pasta and 1 tablespoon table salt; stir to separate pasta. Cook until al dente; reserve 1/3 cup pasta cooking water and drain pasta for about 5 seconds, leaving pasta slightly wet. Transfer drained pasta to warm serving bowl; if pasta is dry, add some reserved cooking water and toss to moisten. Immediately pour egg mixture over hot pasta, sprinkle with 1 teaspoon sea salt flakes or 3/4 teaspoon table salt; toss well to combine. Pour bacon mixture over pasta, season generously with black pepper, and toss well to combine. Serve immediately.